Battambang.... And the end of my time in South East Asia.

I think Battambang was my favourite place in Cambodia - alongside Kampot anyway. I stayed there for ten days. As cliche as it is to comment, but it really felt like the 'real' Cambodia. It reinforced all that I have learnt from my time in Cambodia - that is all the good and a lot of the bad. It is a place which does still evidently suffer from huge social issues and extreme poverty, due largely to the region being one of the last places liberated from a Khmer Rouge stronghold, and so it endured brutality for such a long period of time. However it is now rebuilding itself again, and it is re-establishing and celebrating its former identity which the Khmer Rouge so haphazardly destroyed in 1975.

Before the Khmer Rouge, Battambang was the centre for the Khmer arts and the art scene is certainly making a strong comeback. It now boasts the most artists per capita than anywhere else in Cambodia. This is evident from merely walking down its narrow streets. Art galleries showcase local Khmer artists work and the numerous cafés deliver an arty ambience. Even the cities crumbling  French colonial architecture, which lines its streets, and the copious number of statues only play to exaggerate its artistic vibe.

Battambang's restored identity is partly thanks to the PHARE school. This is a wonderful project which I fully endorse. The school provides free education, free food and helps train students in any of the art forms. The majority of its students have come from very difficult backgrounds. The school provides the students with hope and ambition. When they graduate some students stay on as teachers, some become exhibiting artists and some even tour the world with the circus - hence providing so many prospects. Some of the best circus-schooled performers join the circus in Siem Reap (which is where I first came across PHARE). I was so impressed by the world class performance that I was intrigued to visit the school responsible for developing such talent. During my visit to the PHARE school I really acknowledged the extent of the difficult backgrounds of some of its students - and how far the school aids development. However, whilst I was there various comments were made on the seriousness of the social problems evident in many of the children and just how tough it really is to help them.

During my time in Battambang I experienced firsthand the extent of some of these social issues - caused largely by the widespread poverty and the desperation it provokes. For instance, one time whilst I was cycling through an isolated rural area just outside from the city, I was attempted to be pulled off my bike by a group of teenagers holding weapons. Luckily I preempted what was about to happen and was fine. It is only disconcerting when the weapons they hold were the weapons of choice by Khmer Rouge. But I generally don't think these kids would have actually hurt me if they had succeeded to get me off my bike. They only wanted me in a compromised position so that I could be robbed easier. I think weapons are used due only to the simple fact that the average westerner is a lot bigger than the average Asian. However I also experienced the other end of Cambodian society's social problems scale - where some behaviour has not yet been denounced as unacceptable and it upsets me that a society so easily ignores such issues and hence does little to even attempt to prevent them from occurring. Again I escaped unharmed - but a lot of people do not and that is a frightening reality.

As aforementioned Battambang has really been a region which endured exceptional hardship from the Khmer Rouge and reminders - in addition to the extreme social issues and poverty - are plentiful throughout the region. Physical indication of the atrocities which occurred here take many forms. The existence of the dam which stole thousands of lives in its building, the 'killing cave' where thousands more were bludgeoned to death and perhaps for me the most difficult to visit was the Well of Shadows. 10,000 people were imprisoned and killed here at Wat Somrong Knong and the remembrance of these lives is captured in a memorial monument which depicts some of the atrocities which occurred. Ironically the monument was funded by the USA - much alike a lot of Cambodia's commemoration memorials which I have often found to have been funded by some western country - perhaps due to the extreme guilt the West should feel as they permitted such tragedy to occur by relentlessly funding the Khmer Rouge with absolute knowledge of the occurring brutality. For me the Well of Shadows was the most haunted place I visited in Cambodia. I found the Killing Fields in Phnom Penh extremely difficult as well. But the Killing Fields are a strange place. The place has almost become a commodity by its tourist 'must-see' status and the fact it is so full of hawkers who are so desensitized to the place that they inappropriately sit around laughing and selling overpriced merchandise. Any place which is haunted by such newborn ghosts should be respected as a place of remembrance and education, and I think is wrong to commodify it in the way in which it has been. Such emphasis is also placed on this sole killing field and with its immense popularity it almost disregards that this is only one in literally thousands of equally horrendous 'killing fields'. It seems to be certain tourists comments that 'yes Phnom Penh is a hard place to visit but the rest of Cambodia is lovely'. Of course, tourists should come to Cambodia to enjoy themselves, to have a holiday, but I think it is really important to remember how badly all of Cambodia suffered. Visiting a place like the Well of Shadows - which is by no means a tourist destination - is a really genuine reminder of the inconceivable number of places across Cambodia that is haunted by such barbarity.

Further what I find just as incomprehensible is that a significant number of these ex Khmer Rouge commanders,  in spite of their wicked pasts, are today living lives of comfort not having suffered one ounce for their evils, whilst good people continue to suffer. Pailin - a city close to Battambang - is well known as a place for ex Khmer Rouge commanders to happily settle. Even Hua Sen the current Prime Minister and most of the current cabinet were ex Khmer Rouge commanders back in the day - and possibly part the reason for why the government today do absolutely nothing to help Cambodians. They offer absolutely no welfare and do absolutely nothing to help the old - who after being 'liberated' from the fields discovered they have nowhere to go and no family to take care of them. Mind you not that there are too many old people within Cambodia with 80% of the population being under 30 years old...  But still it is ordinary to see little old ladies with hunched backs and no home shuffling down the street, and it is heartbreaking to only wonder what hell they have been through. Lastly despite all the constant reminders of the atrocities which occurred, it continues to shock me about the lack of knowledge the Khmer-under-30s even have of the Khmer Rouge regime. They understand it was a 'terrible time, really horrible' but they know little more. But perhaps it really is just a reluctance to talk about it. I guess the nations philosophy is to forget and continue. Keep calm and carry on.

I have realised that this blog has somehow shifted emphasis, but bringing it back to Battambang - despite its sickening history and ongoing social issues - it really is a charming city with a great pace. It is surprising that Battambang is Cambodia's second largest city as it does have the small town feel. Every morning I would wander down to the local market only to experience the hustle and bustle. I would wander around the marketplace - attempting to avoid the fish guts which regardless to any effort would splutter up my legs anyway - and as I meandered I was always greeted with the friendliest of smiles and greetings, and would make the vendors laugh with my poor attempts to buy goods in bad Khmer. After a while I  found my favourite vendors for my daily sugar palm juice, my fruit and my coconut sweets who would then all wave so energetically if I only passed. This is the side of Cambodia which I truly feel in love with and brings such hope for its future.

Sorry for this being so long.

Most days I was awoken by the chanting of the monks below my room as they go about their alms rounds.

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The concrete pictures depicted the Khmer Rouge barbarity at Wat Somrong Knong

Wat Somrong Knong. This beautiful old temple was used as a prison for women.

Angkor Wat

I only spent one day visiting this incredible temple complex, however I feel completely satisfied with what I saw. I highly recommend ignoring the typical tuk tuk trap and to just take a bike. It is possible.

Siem Reap

I enjoyed Siem Reap. Not only is it a gateway for the incredible Angkor Wat, but if you cycle fifteen minutes out of town in any direction then you find yourself in a gorgeous rural setting.

Koh Kong City

Koh Kong City has a sleazy past but it is working hard to change its reputation by developing a greater ecotourism. Although ecotourism is attracting a new crowd, it is evident that its darker side remains. It is a strange place and the more you dig around the more undeniable it is that its seediness remains in full swing. Local grumbles include that a price of a shag has risen from $3 to $20 and that "that one prostitute... who looks 20... is actually 15 years old". The notoriously nicknamed "chicken farm" uses violence and drug addiction to control the vulnerable women who find themselves there. Sex trafficking is also commonplace. I learnt that a particularly attractive women could be sold for $1,000 but one who is less fortunate looking can be bought for as little as $300. After showing perhaps too much curiosity I was asked to be involved with an exposé of the brothel, where it was planned that I would go inside with an undercover camera. Only when I was told how much "security" I would need - consisting of ex hells angels and a cage fighter - that I decided it was possibly a bad idea, after all curiosity did kill the cat as I am often reminded.... and perhaps it's possible that I am not the most inconspicuous for the job. But these occurrences are certainly not confined to Koh Kong City. During my travels in Cambodia, I have regularly heard of similar activity transpiring across the country.

Cambodia is also suffering from an increasing prevalence of HIV cases - partially as an outcome to this irresponsible sex tourism. For me it was extremely difficult to learn about the Cambodians total misconceptions about the virus. Perhaps not about HIVs seriousness, but absolutely about its prevention. It is a common belief among Khmer men that after unprotected sex if they only remember to wash their penis under soapy water then they will be just fine - HIV risk completely eliminated. It is this lack of education which is most disconcerting and contributing to the fact Cambodia has the highest rate of HIV in Asia. It also adds an even more sickening element to the horrendous fact that a significant percentage of Khmer men's first time is within a gang rape situation. An immense issue which Cambodian society quietly - or perhaps obliviously - overlooks. To grasp the sheer extent of the issue I think the percentage is a nauseating 23% of females in Cambodia are raped at least once in their lives. To contemplate such an inhumane violation being tolerated within a society that has complete disregard to the dangers of unprotected sex and HIV is becoming an extremely serious risk really is frightening.

I think I have slightly gone off topic. Despite all of the issues caused by Koh Kong City's sex tourism allure, Koh Kong is a great gateway to experience the richness of Cambodia's land. I did a trek into the Cardamom Mountains, a walk in the mangroves and some bike rides into jungle-lined roads.

Koh Rong

My home for two and a half weeks. I worked for food and accommodation at one of the beach bars and became a part of the Koh Rong family.

Kep and Kompong Trach

I did a day trip to the lovely Kep and Kompong Trach.

At the caves in Kompong Trach I met a lovely local who showed me around. After refusing payment, I bought him a drink and he asked if I would like to visit his house and meet his family. I went along and met his kind family. Unfortunately along the way I lost my motorcycle keys and by the time the search commenced it was simply too dark to find them. I was told I could get some remade in the black market in the morning. I was therefore treated to a traditional Khmer dinner and an impromptu home stay. The next day the keys were found under the coconut tree. This is the only photo I have of the family.

Bokor National Park

An abandoned french colonial hill station. 

Kampot

It feels like a world away from Phnom Penh. Chilled and charming. Crumbling colonial buildings line its streets. One of the elements I liked most about Kampot was the local NGO attempts to help bring work to those who would otherwise find it impossible. This attempt is perfectly incorporated into my favourite cafe in Kampot - 'The Epic arts cafe'. Unfortunately despite Kampot being a nice place, extreme poverty does still exist and we experienced the harsh realities of the extent some people are forced to go to. We were robbed in the middle of the night by two men in balaclavas. This is not a normal occurrence for Kampot and was perhaps more organised crime than an opportunity to help feed your family - but it still happened.

Phnom Penh

Before I arrived into Phnom Penh, I made a stop at Kratie. Kratie is a small but hustling riverside town which gave me beautiful sunsets and my first taste of fish amok. Unfortunately these pictures are also on my corrupted stick. As are most of my pictures from Phnom Penh. I did not like Phnom Penh. It lacks charm, and is full of crime and corrupt policemen - as I know from firsthand experience. Nonetheless you have to make the visit, and so I attempted to find its nice side.

Laos

Unfortunately my memory stick has been corrupted. I have attempted to fix it myself and have only made it worse, and so now I am just going to wait for someone who knows what they are doing. Until then, I will briefly explain my trip through Laos.

I started in Huay Xai which is a typical small border town, but does still retain some charm and its views across the river are lovely.

I then took the bus up to Luang Nam Tha. Here I went Kayaking through the jungle on the Nam Tha River. It was simply stunning. Paddling though white water rapids, thick jungle and past the occasional remote village.

After Luang Nam Tha I attempted to visit Muang Khua to then take the boat down to Nong Khiaw. But after a two day ordeal which included three cancelled buses, a broken down bus, an unwanted overnight stay in the unattractive Oudomxay and a lorry which fell off a cliff, I decided to give up and go wherever I could. I made it to Nong Khiaw. A place which I loved. Bungalows are by the beautiful riverside. Cycling into the nearby villages was a great experience too. We explored many caves which were used during the secret war to shoot down the Americans. We found caves which I had never experienced before thanks to a kind local's knowledge, these caves turned out to be series of dark narrow tunnels which twisted both up and down.

Next I went down to Luang Probang, which was extremely different to what I had previously experienced of Laos. But not in a bad way. It is a charming city and the traces of past French colonization are almost celebrated in the form of well kept colonial architecture and great bakeries.

I then ventured down to Vang Vieng where I stayed for one day, but did have the craziest party I could have had. Despite having certain preconceptions about Vang Vieng, I am really glad that I went and did have the best time. But I could not have stayed long.

Next was Vientiane. A place which gets such a bad rep for being boring and not worth a visit. I completely disagree. It was lovely. A really clean Asian city with lots of character. I found lots to do including the best European food market, parks, so many monuments and a really informative museum about the Secret War and the vast number of landmines which remain in Laos. I was also in Vientiane on Buddah's birthday and was lucky enough to sit and watch a beautiful procession - full of colour and music - at the Pha That Luang.

I then went down to Tha Khek with intention to do 'the loop'. However, after an extremely long day visiting Kong Lor Cave I decided to move on. We estimated getting to the cave would only take us about an hour on bus. But we were wrong. We had to take a tuk tuk, then a bus, then another bus, then a pick-up-truck, and another pick-up-truck. Having left at 6am we arrived at 4pm. We rushed through the cave - which was awesome - because we knew what the journey back would hold. However, in addition to the getting there ordeal, getting back included a huge storm which flooded the bus and tripped out its lights.

After Tha Khek I ventured down to Pakse. Another comfortable journey as space priority was given to the thousands of cucumbers, leaving the passengers to pickle themselves into the limited remaining space. Pakse was lovely. A little more going on than Tha Khek and a great gateway to see the Laos countryside - which is littered with waterfalls. I also took a day trip to Champasak to see Wat Phu. It is rumoured that Wat Phu inspired Angkor Wat. Whether that is true is debatable, but nonetheless it is very impressive - and I was the only person there which is always bonus, especially at a World Heritage Site. On my way to Wat Phu I passed through a small village who were holding a firework festival for a reason I still don't quite understand. It seemed like just an excuse for a party. Big rockets were being launched from a bamboo structure - and then collectively dodged as they made their way back down into the Lao Lao intoxicated crowds..

Next was Don Det which was gorgeous and just very chilled. All to be down is to ride your bike through rice paddies and the neighboring island Don Khon, kayak, relax in a hammock and watch the most beautiful sunsets. A perfect way to end my time in Laos.

The White Temple

Pai

The Canyon in Pai

Chiang Mai